Lake Pend Oreille

Spending three days near Lake Pend Oreille in northern Idaho. Did a little biking, took a couple of scenic drives, some browsing in local crafty/artsy shops, took in a local farmers market. . .nothing terribly exciting but we managed to fill the days. Apparently it is huckleberry season. I am not sure I knew what a huckleberry was but they seem to be a local specialty. I get the sense that they grow wild in the “high country” and not cultivated in gardens. We have tried the jam and the huckleberry flavored icecream and agree it is pretty good.

We celebrated my birthday with a nice quiet dinner at a Sandpoint restaurant overlooking a bay of Lake Pend Oreille. We toasted another good year.

The lake at sunset and a surprise look at a Bald Eagle.

Kootenay and back to the US

Tuesday
We used up our Canadian coin at a Tim Horton before crossing over the border into Idaho. Can’t come to Canada and not enjoy a Tim Horton donut and coffee at least once. That would be un-Canadian!!
Easy border crossing south of Creston, BC and down Idaho’s Wild Horse Scenic Byway to Sandpoint where we will spend a couple of days. Time to catch up on a mountain of laundry and do a little grocery shopping.

Monday
Time to pull up stakes and leave Banff National Park and Alberta and head over the mountains into British Columbia. We turned south and drove the length of Kootenay National Park to the Columbia River Valley. Radium Hot Springs is known as the Big Horn Sheep capital of the World. We craned our necks looking at all the rock ledges and hill tops but didn’t see any. Wrong time of year, I suspect. As it is the wrong time of year to see the thousands of migratory bids that come through the Columbia River watershed which is right here also. We did, however get long leisurely looks at a Red Necked Grebe with her teenage chick. Great spotting!
We did get to “take in the waters” at Radium Hot Spring. We walked the mile and half trail through the woods from our campground to the historic hot springs resort. Steph, are you jealous? We had a nice long hot soak.

Sunday
You’d think we both would be skinny as a rail with all the hiking and outdoor exercise we have been doing but unfortunately that is not happening. Think we are rewarding our efforts with too many treats. We usually pack a nice big lunch to take with us on our rambles each day and then stop to eat our picnic at some nice spot. It always tastes extra good when the ambiance is right.

Wildlife watching is big around here and we have seen our share. We were lucky to see a few bears and even a black bear mom with two cubs from the car window. Fortunately we did not come across any on our many hikes. The Bow Valley is the corridor of a major transcontinental hiway through the Canadian Rockies, and a busy railroad, and the town sites of Banff and Lake Louise, plus it is the lush forest where the wildlife try to eke out an existence. Fences have been installed along Hiway 1 and then animal overpasses and underpasses that allow wildlife to move about and keep them off the roads where they were too often hit by cars and trucks. There actually is an electric fence that circles the community of Lake Louise to keep the bears wild--from becoming too use to people.

out and about around Lake Louise

We managed a rendezvous with Tucson friends, Andy and Carol Fiori. They have been traveling thru the Northwest and up through British Columbia making their way to the Tonquin Valley near Jasper. They are planning to pack in on horseback to a wilderness lodge on Amethyst Lake for 4 days. Does that sound great or what!! They found us one rainy afternoon at our camp and then we met in Banff for great rooftop dining at the “Elk and Oarsmen.” Neat to catch up and exchange travel stories.

Don’t know if you can make it out in the picture but the Kicking Horse Pass over the Continental Divide was the steepest grade on the railroad in the entire country. They solved the problem by building the Spiral Tunnels which are two tunnels that loop inside the mountain—where the trains actually loop over themselves—twice to get to the valley floor. The kind of thing you have to witness to understand how it works. We stood at viewpoint and watched two trains come through and then stopped another day to watch it again. The trains are long enough that you can watch the end of train continue into the tunnel while the engine emerges from the mountain at a lower level (or upper level depending on which way the train is going.)

Another best hike was the Bow Summit Trail. Starts out at Peyto Lake at 7000 ft and then makes a steady but doable climb up to a point where you can see north up the Bow Valley and turn around and down the valley to Bow Lake. On top of the world with only the ground squirrel alarm calls and hoary marmots chirps to announce our presence.

Jasper and Icefirld Parkway

Packed our toothbrushes and left the RV behind to drive to Jasper up the Icefields Parkway for an overnight. Decided we would not stop on the way, save the Parkway sites for the trip back, but we needed a break about the time Athabasca Falls showed up. You’d think we would get tired of water falls but each one seems to be better than the last one. First thing in Jasper was a stop at the visitor center to check the board to find a room for the night in a private home. After perusing the busy main street we headed for a trek along Maligne Canyon and the plunging waters of the deep chasm below and then a stroll along the shore of Maligne Lake. Treated ourselves to an over-the-top dinner at Fairmont Jasper Lodge.

First thing next morning we easily spent a couple of hours at Angel Glacier on the face of Mt Edith Cavel. Then headed back down the Parkway stopping to see the myriad of overlooks, lakes, mountain views, waterfalls and of course a long stop at the Columbia Icefields Visitor Center where we learned all about glaciers and a close up look at Athabasca Glacier. Well, Will walked up to the toe of the glacier but I wimped out as it was beginning to rain.

I wonder if Doug and friend Amy (Haan’s) ears are burning because we have been talking about them as we reminisce about the last time we were in Jasper in 1990. We drove the kids to Edmonton to attend a Young Calvinist Convention when they were senior/juniors in high school. After Convention the four of us went back to Jasper National Park and did a lot of the same attractions that we are doing now. Some things we remember and some we only remember from the old photos. Great place then and now.
By the way Our Aching Backs story seems to have a happy ending. Will still has the occasional twinge, he is not jogging yet but mostly we are good to go. It is not keeping us from doing anything we want to do.

day by day in Canadian Rockies

Sunday
Sunshine is the word for the day. Lots of it. We hoped on a shuttle bus that took us up to the Continental Divide and we spent the day tramping over some lovely trails across an alpine meadow that is appropriately called, “Sunshine Meadow.”

Saturday
Took a ride on a chair lift at Lake Louise Ski Resort and then hiked up (up is the operative word here) to the top of a higher chair lift where we could see the back side of the ski mountain. One naturally thinks about the dangers of bears or mountain lions while hiking in the Rockies but you don’t usually worry about attacking grouse! We came upon a very agitated Spruce Grouse that went out of his way to defend his territory. Apparently he had laid claim to the trail. We were considerably bigger than him so he couldn’t do much damage but he was fearless.

Took a side trip into Yoho National Park which lies is over the Continental Divide into British Columbia to see a couple of sights close to the road. Takakkaw Falls which is suppose to be one of the highest waterfalls in Canada is there and most interesting is a visitor center that has displays from a site called the Burgess Shale which are considered to be the world’s finest fossil beds from the Cambrian period. There I go again with my rocks and fossils! The quality found here was so perfect that it has unraveled mysteries of a major stage of evolution.


Friday
A rainy, drippy morning was just the perfect weather for a trip into the town of Banff to check out the Banff Springs Hotel. It sits above a bend in the Bow River and is one of the largest, grandest, and most opulent mountain resorts in the world. We poked around in some of the shops, and checked out the several restaurants, gawked at all the antiques and architecture and settled on a cup of coffee from the deli.

The bustling commercial village fully within the park boundaries is interesting to us as you would not find that in a US national park. But Banff was built as a destination resort town from the very beginning and it is still the only reason it is here. We dodged rain showers all day long as we explored the sights in town and surrounding areas. We had a picnic lunch in a covered gazebo in Cascade Gardens and watched it rain. Drove out to Minnewanka Lake, largest body of water in Banff national park.

The unstable weather here is a wonder all by itself. We are practically right on the Continental Divide and these mountains create their own weather. Out of nowhere a big black cloud comes and dumps a shower of rain and then ten minutes later the sun is shining. The changing clouds just add an element of drama to these Rocky Mountains. You just can’t look at the peaks enough because depending on the sky, they keep changing. And just as the sun goes down the very tops of the peaks are illuminated like a spot light. The kind of thing you see in paintings but it is real.

Lake Louise

I guess we are spending one more days in Banff National Park than originally planned. As we approached the RV park we realized that our reservations didn’t begin until the following day!! Either a case of being on the road too long and losing track of what day it is or. . . another “senior moment.” We were a bit anxious when the sign said “campground full” but upon further inquiry they had lots of room for us. They sort of don’t bother to take the sign down as it does fill up each night. We happen to arrive early enough to still get a space. We have a large, wooded campsite on the Bow River at Lake Louise townsite.


First morning we had to check out the Chateau at Lake Louise first thing. It is the iconic picture of Banff. The icy aqua-blue lake with the mirror image of Victoria glacier is something to see. Later we went back and hiked the Plain of Six Glacier Trail which takes you 8.5 miles (round trip) and 1,000 feet elevation gain past the lake up close to the glacier and to a tea house nestled in the woods. It was a delightful lunch that we worked hard for. The tea house was built in 1929 and has been serving hikers from the Chateau continuously—no electricity, everything cooked with propane (use to be wood) and everything baked fresh daily. Supplies brought in on horse back. Actually, there are two tea houses within hiking distance from the lake.

Did the trek up Johnston Canyon near the town of Banff to see a couple of water falls. They have constructed a catwalk attached to the canyon wall so you hike right along and over the river for some terrific views. Found a family of American Dippers in the fast moving waters. Mom was working hard to keep two babies satisfied.

We have yet to stay up long enough to see it get dark in the evenings. The days are so long it is still daylight at 10pm and we are both ready to fall into bed by that time.

Lake Louise in background--we are up under the glacier and heading for the tea house

bike riding in Calgary

We could spend more time here in Calgary quite easily. It is a nice place to be. We took a fun bike ride today along the Bow River. The city has a wonderful system of bike trails and parks along the river for miles and miles. We parked in a park-and-ride in the west end of town a short drive from our RV campground and then biked down town and beyond. The Bow River is a clear, blue river straight from the Rockies snow fields and the combination made a very pleasant ride.

Tomorrow we pack up again and head for Lake Louise area in Banff National Park. Don't know what our internet capability will be in the park, but that will be our base for the next two weeks. I will post when I can.

Here is another picture taken at the Stampede in one of the animal barns. Now is that a picture of contentment--sweet.

Calgary and the Stampede

As you get closer to Calgary, Alberta continues to look alot like the Dakotas except you have these amazing Canadian Rockies showing up on the horizon!

Yahoo!! Calgary Stampede is on.



Billed as the Greatest Outdoor Show in the World. It is a Rodeo. It is a fair. It is an agricultural exhibition. It is Midway, Main Stage Entertainment, Chuck Wagon Races, Juried art fair, demonstrations, Horse barns. It is definitely an international food fair that is heavy on the Alberta beef. There is fireworks, corn dogs, horse shows, and on and on. We had a good time—spent two whole days there. Calgary does it up right.

This gal is from Marana (Tucson) We have watched her in the barrel races at Tucson Rodeo. She did not make the finals but was fun to cheer for her.

Chuck Wagon races are for screaming.

The Cowboy hat is definitely a Calgary thing!! One is not properly dressed without one at the Stampede for sure.

That is the Saddle Dome at the end of the midway on the Stampede grounds.

Alberta, Canada

From the border to Calgary is pretty much farmland, not unlike what you see in Montana or the Dakotas. Shimmering yellow fields of canola in bloom. Did you know Canola was developed in Canada--means "Canada--oil--low--acid". Now there is some trivia for you.

We are in Alberta, Canada. Stopped last night in the town of McCloud a few hours out of Calgary. Had the first significant rain of our entire trip last evening but woke up this morning to bright sunshine and a sunny forecast. Guess we will no longer be using our cell phones as we are not willing to pay roaming charges. Of course, e-mail will work here.

We are both still nursing back pain and it comes and goes. We gripe and complain at various times. Worst is standing around and fortunately walking and sitting (driving) doesn't seem to bother. We just pass the ibuprofen back and forth.

storm clouds over Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump cliffs

We made a stop at "Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo Jump". Had never heard of a buffalo jump until we came across the one in Montana, and now we found Alberta's site. This one appears to be older and bigger as native peoples used this site for over seven thousand years, long before they had horses or guns to bring down such large animals for food and necessities of life. The story is pretty much the same here, however. In less than a decade the bison was nearly eliminated from the planet in a tragic push of greed, sport, and ignorance. The people who lived on the Plains and depended on the buffalo virtually for life suffered beyond measure.

We are thinking that Doug and Steph are spending today together in Shanghai. Doug has officially moved there to work and Steph is there for a short time to spend some time researching a film collection at a Shanghai Library. Interesting how they manage to find each other across the globe. Not too long ago the two of them took a road trip to Iowa to visit aunts and uncle and Gram. Hey there kiddos, if you are reading this.

Great Falls

Bird watching at the Benton Lake Wildlife Refuge got us up early. First spot was an Upland Sandpiper sitting on a fence post that didn't move while we backed the car up so I could take a picture. Lots of Eared Grebes in bright breading plumage with the red eye and yellow head dress. Meadow larks singing galore as were the Marsh Wrens along a board walk. A brave momma Avocet what trying to lure us away from babies. Mosquitoes most annoying.

Next stop was First Peoples Buffalo Jump at Pishkun State Park. It is a location where the native people killed bison by stampeding them over a cliff. Interesting interpretive center that told the story of the history and demise of the bison and what it meant to the Indians who lived here.

We spent the afternoon at the Charles M. Russell museum. He lived and produced a tremendous amount of paintings, drawings, sculpture, and writings right here in Great Falls, Montana. His home and studio is also open to tour and is on the museum grounds. He was a very prolific western artist and was a success even in his lifetime. Died in 1926.

Bozeman, Montana to Great Falls

The Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman, Mt is a dinosaur lovers dream. I went by myself as Will knows I get sort of carried away looking at bones and rocks and old petrified stuff. Lots of great old bones here. Home to the largest collection of dinosaur fossils from the United States. A new wing was designed by world-renowned dinosaur paleontologist and advisor to the Jurassic Park films, Dr. Jack Horner. I asked one of the volunteers if Dr Horner ever visits the museum and she looked around suddenly and said, why he was just here about 10 minutes ago! I probably walked right by someone famous and did not recognize him. It is part of Montana State University.

Next stop Helena for lunch at a local café and a look at the Cathedral. Is modeled after the great cathedral in Cologne in Germany. Not nearly so big but still impressive. One is a bit surprised to find such an ornate, Gothic cathedral in the middle of Montana.

Onto Great Falls for two nights. We had spent a few days here three years ago and enjoyed the city along the Missouri River so thought it might be a good place to stop and let our mail catch up with us, get my nails done, and get resupplied. What we remember most about Great Falls is the 17 mile bicycle path along the Missouri River. Soon as we got our “chores” done we hoped on the bikes for a leisurely evening ride.



This is a spring called Giant Spring that is right on the shore of Missouri River. In fact they say it creates the shortest river in the world because it immediatly flows into the Missouri.

Wildlife watching

Another favorite pastime is Wildlife Watching. We found ourselves in a "bear-jam" one day. A big Grizzly Bear had traffic backed up for miles as people tried to pull off the road to watch. He was grazing contentedly on a precipice right over the hiway and seemed to be oblivious to all the commotion he was causing. A ranger was there directing traffic and backing people up as he strolled in our direction. Apparently they don't see well and guess the wind was in the right direction, as he gave us all long leisurely looks. Ursus arctos horriblis seems a fitting Latin name for this guy