Friday, October 30, 2009

Home again

This is a nearby park where all the grandparents take the toddlers.

 Anyway, we are home in Tucson now--little tired, a little disoriented, but feeling good.  Time went by so fast, now I will get all my pictures in order so I can savor the memories.  We flew out of Shanghai airport about 11 am Friday morning and arrived in Los Angeles at 9:45 Friday morning--over an hour before we left!  I don't get it.  We got the day  back that we lost going over. 

Thursday, October 29, 2009

last day in China

Our last day in Shanghai.  We spent it walking the streets again--our favorite thing to do.  Went to an area of town that use to be warehouses and a cotton mill but now is turned into artist studios, galleries and art space.  It is really an interesting place to spend a few hours..  One tends to think of Chinese painting as classical brush strokes and silk scrolls but the new Chinese artist is as avant guard as anyone..  Saw some delightful and interesting exhibitions.
  Our last dinner out tonight, Tammy took us across town to a Korean neighborhood for some Korean Bar-B-Q.  Up late packing as we have an early flight home in the morning.  I'm going to feel bad leaving--I always do. 

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Thoughts on China

picture of Renmin park from 38th floor lobby lounge of Marriott--where I walked away and left my camera.  Paniced 15 minutes later and came back and found it laying on ledge right where I left it!

Observations of China

Chinese beds are very firm—actually, hard!

Most taxis now have meters which makes traveling much less stressful.  There were cab drivers that wanted to bargain on Hainan so thinking that outside of the cities you still have to negotiate taxi fares.

Trains and subways are dependable and relatively easy to navigate and mostly quite comfortable.

Renmin subway station in shanghai is NOT the place to be during rush hour—a crush of people.  We found that out the hard way.  However, I would say people were not purposely rude or obnoxious, it was just a lot of people trying to make their way where they needed to be.

One needs to "stay aware" when crossing the street, even when light is green. Pedestrians do not have the right-of-way. Buses trump cars, cars trump bikes, bikes trump people.

China has the biggest billboards ever!

Lots of smokers although we have seen non-smoking sections in restaurants which I don't remember the last time we were here.

We have been surprised at the number of restaurants that have at least some English on menus and street signs.  Guessing its not that way where there are fewer foreigners.  Hainan had Russian signage also.

Shanghai is quite ethnically diverse.  Many  Japanese, Taiwanese, Koreans, Germans, Africans. Tammy has found Korean restaurants that pass her high standards. Also architecturally diverse as from its consessionary days during the turn of the century.  Many of these old buildings are being restored now but many are just remnants of what once was.

If we have been approached once, we have been approached 300 times by people trying to sell us a "very good price" Rolex (knock off?) watch. You can get rid of these people much quicker with a smile and a wave of hand and a no-thank-you than to try to ignore them or get angry.  They will follow you down the street if they sense a glimmer of interest.  Showing anger during any kind of negotiation will get you nowhere..  This only happens in touristy areas so I am sure all foreigners are besieged.

Clean bathrooms are a challenge to find when we are out for the day.  Although, I would say they are easier to find now than 9 years ago.  Never leave the house without a pack of tissues for obvious reasons.

Shanghai is hosting the 2010 Expo which is the next World's Fair and the city is rising to the occasion.  It is a very big deal here. Advertising for the event is everywhere, "Better City, Better Life" is the logo and shows up in most unlikely places.  The city is putting its best foot forward and sprucing everything up for it, much like Beijing did for the 2008 Olympics.  Construction scheduled to be completed by the beginning of Expo in May of 2010 is all around.  The financial crisis is hard to determine here. 

You can get chicken prepared a myriad of ways here, but most likely it will still have bones in it.  We lovingly call it "smashed chicken"; they just don't debone chicken in China.

The Chinese are light years ahead as far as the average guy on the street and technology.  Everyone uses their cell phones to access internet instead of being tied to a laptop like we are.  Texting is a national pastime.

We are on sensory-overload all the time here.  The cacophony of sights, smells and sound is amazing.  It is all so different than our quiet life in Tucson.  Some things seem so bazaar to us while others  are so impressive—like how slick the Asian airlines work in comparison to flying in the US.  Sometimes we look at each other with bewildered looks as we have no clue what is going on.  It is all very interesting.  We are not so uncommon here but we had a couple of occasions outside of Shanghai where we got stared at, and a couple of times people wanted to have their picture taken with us (the foreigners.) We got pointed at a lot more when we were here 9 years ago

Tammy does not have a dryer and thinking it is not uncommon to not have one.  Most people still have clothes hanging on balcony or on a pole out of their window.  Tammy does have a little room off her kitchen that is inside the apartment but has full opening to outside and that is where she hangs her clothes to air dry.  Actually that is where the kid's maid hangs their clothes to dry.  But it is so humid that it takes a long time to get anything really dry.

 

 

 

 

resending seafood pictures

Got word that maybe these two pictures didn't make it through from Hainan Island so am resending them.  Too good to miss.  Doug negotiated a price and they cooked up the fish and clams Hainan style and we had a feast.  Mostly steamed with a little ginger and soy and then made a soup with the fish head and some goodies added like greens and tofu.  This was a restaurant along the street in the little neighboring town from our resort.  Southern Chinese food is not spicy at all, although the hotel restaurant was Sichuan food which is very spicy.  Tammy loves it, Will can't do it, I can handle some of it but true Sichuan spicy here is fire hot.

We found this Baptist church not so far from our neighborhood.  Nice well kept building.  We peeked inside the large modern sanctuary but no one around that spoke any English to ask any questions. 
Will is buying bananas and Asian pears.

more Shanghai

Subway is the way to go. 
Strolling down Nanjing Lu, the famous pedestrian shopping street

Shanghai at work

This is the street in front of the kid's apartment.  Sidewalk goes right under scaffolding--pedestrian beware! During rush hour the streets are jammed with cars, motor bikes, bicycles and pedestrians.

Monday, October 26, 2009

last day at Yalong Bay

Tammy left for home late last night, Doug caught an early morning flight this morning to Shenzhen on business and we spent one more day here on Hainan island just enjoying the resort and walking to a couple of local sites, like a butterfly garden, a small shell museum and this tall oblisk which is close to the shell museum and close to the shore of Yalong Bay.  Lots of shopping and tourist markets around it. We'll catch an 8pm flight back to Shanghai and Doug's company driver will pick us up at the airport.  How's that for service.

the kiddos

These kids are great!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

seafood

This. . . .became this. . .in just a few minutes and it was delicious.

rain forest

Chinese tour

Will and I joined a tour from the hotel to a rain forest.  Doug helped us book it and the bus left from this hotel so we thought we could do this.  We muddled through and ended up having a good day.  We were the only non Chinese on the tour, and the tour guide did not speak English so we didn't get any of her narration.  What we did have was an automatic recorded guide in English that worked great--once we figured out how it worked.  Was ingenious really--as we walked along the paths and would come to a plant of interest, or an area with a story it would automatically come on and tell us about it through the ear phones.  This rain forest park had board-walk trails all through it and we saw all manner of tropical plants, water falls, thousand year old banyon trees, and lots and lots of people also out enjoying the trek.  We were hoping we would see some birds but it was mid day, hot, and too busy for wildlife to show themselves.  Doug and Tammy relaxed and enjoyed the resort while we went off by ourselves.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Hainan weekend

We fought stop and go traffic to get to the airport during rush hour so that the four of us could catch a plane to Sanya on Hainan Island for a long weekend holiday together.  Hainan is located south and west of Hong Kong, actually very near VietNam.  Is a tropical resort island for the Chinese, also noticing a lot of Russians vacationing here.  We checked into the Cactus Hotel on Yalong Bay.  Somehow we didn't expect to see a Mayan temple-themed hotel in Asia but all quite nice and certainly tropical.  China's Hawaii.  We swam in the very warm, clear waters of Yalong Bay, relaxed by the huge hotel pool and I even had a "fish message."  I climbed into a small heated pool with thousands of tiny fish who immediately begin to nibble away as they exfoliate the skin. Made me giggle.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

port city

We took a three hour river cruise down the Huang Pu river to the bay where Yangze begins.  They told us that this is the busiest/biggest shipping port in the world.  I don't know if that is true but it is certainly an interesting site with all manner of boats from ocean going container ships to barges to family junks.

home

Doug and Tammy's apartment

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Went to YuYuan Gardens today which is the traditional "Old Town" in Shanghai.  Old classical Chinese garden  which is quite beautiful but surrounded by kitchy souviner shops.  Every tourist in Shanghai picked today to go--it was so crowded!  Also found the Barbie Store--6 floors of nothing but Barbie dolls, Barbie related clothing and items for a total Barbie experience. This picture is just the contrast of old and new--thats the new World Financial Center Building and JinMao tower looming over the old city.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Hongzhou

We climbed on a bus for the short ride to the city of Hongzhou.  Tammy and Doug immediately went on back to Shanghai and left us for two days on our own.  Doug booked us a hotel close to West Lake which was very convenient and the heart of the city.  There are a lot of lakes named West Lake in China but this is THE West Lake that all the others are named after. Hongzhou has an amazing bicycle rental system that we took full advantage of.  They have something like 10,000 orange bikes at various rental kiosks around the city that you access by pass card.  You need a bike, you swipe your card, take a bike, drop it off when you get where you are going.  Want to go somewhere else?, take another bike--we biked around the lake and through several parks--biked all day for something like $4.  The second day we took a boat ride out to an island in the middle of West Lake to see more parks and gardens.  We managed to order food at restuarants with a lot of pointing and lame Chinglish phrases.  We even found a couple of English menus.  What a hoot.  Took an very comfortable fast train back to Shanghai on tuesday evening and then subway back to the kid's, full of stories to tell.

Yixing

The thing about Yixing pots is that they always have the artists mark on the bottom, whether they are made by a master and end up in a museum or sell for hundreds, even thousands of dollars or if they are made by a novice and sell for 40 yuan ($7) in a street market.

Our mountain resort

Attaching pictures of MoGanShan.  We stayed in a resort villa on top of Mogan Mountain in the midst of a bamboo forest.  We could watch the local farmers harvesting the bamboo and carrying big loads on thier backs.  Apparently the farmers cut it and haul it out to the road and pile it up where trucks can load and haul it out as traffic was stopped a couple of times while people were piling it high onto trucks.  This area is infamous also because several Shanghai mobsters had elaborate villas here during the 30's. We toured one restored villa where Chaing KaiShek stayed on his wedding night.  Surrounded by Chinese history that is lost on us westerners.

more from Zhouzhuang

More from Zhouzhuang

Weekend trip

The four of us took a very early train last Friday to Suzhou where we hired a car and driver for the day to take us to the ancient town of Zhoujhuang.  This is one of China's "water towns", also a World Heritage Site. The village is 900 years old, very picturesque.  It is a huge tourist draw but town has done a good job of keeping it "authentic."  We took a boat ride on the canals and walked the old city and poked into a few shops and found a nice spot for lunch.
 
Next stop was Yixing, where the whole town is involved in pottery making of one kind or another.  The local clay is a distinctive dark "purple".  We toured a ceramic museum and watched local potters demonstrate the technique involved in making the famous tea pots.  I have Yixing pots at home but ended up buying some again--can't have too many Yixing pots.  Stayed the night at a nice hotel here.
 
The next morning we hired another taxi to take us to MoGanShan, a mountain resort in the middle of a bamboo forest.  Remember the scene of the KungFu fighters battle running across the top of the bamboo trees in the movie, Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon--it was filmed here.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

shopping street

One of the many upscale shopping opportunities in Shanghai.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

neighborhood

View of Doug and Tammy's neighborhood fom thier window.  Interesting blend of hi-rises and lower homes/shops on tree lined streets.  Everything is undergoing urban renewal of some sort or another.
  Hope this is getting through.  Hey send me an email if you like--I have no other way of knowing if this is working!

meet Tina

This is Tina.  She is the sweetest thing.  Only desire in life is to be where you are.  Most low-maintenance dog I have ever seen.  She's had a hard life.  Doug and Tammy got her from a rescue place so she was certainly living on the streets.  Unfortunately she came with skin "issues" so has to be shaved frequently and medicated.  Now if she ever gets to grow her white fur, she'll be a beauty!
 
 

Chinglish

You see smatherings of English all over but it often is just not quite right!  Now, would you buy one of these drinks?  I think they were trying to tell us that this is the carbonated beverage isle, but this sounds a little scary.  I do appreciate that they try.

Tourists

Doug and Tammy have a comfy apartment on the 21st floor in a convenient location close to Jiang An temple—if we would get lost we can always just tell a cab driver to take us to JiangAn as everyone knows where that is.  We did a walking tour suggested in a guide book of the old French Concession area which is very close.  There are lots of turn of the century western architecture in the area, some restored, some not, but now is an eclectic blend of homes, trendy shops, local markets,  old mansions, parks, restaurants and hotels.   Was an all day stroll.  We spent a lot of time at a Chinese cultural arts and crafts museum where we could view artists at work making traditional crafts such as paper cutting, silk embroidery, ivory carving, etc.  It was all for sale, of course.  I resisted.

Then we met up with former students who have turned into dear friends, WenLe and LiJi, and the 6 of us had an amazing dinner together.  Was fun to introduce them to Doug and Tammy.  LiJi ordered an array of amazing dishes, some that were new to Doug and Tammy.  We have kept in contact with WenLe and LiJi over these past years and last visited them 4 years ago.  Such a neat couple.  They are both back in school, she is working on her doctorate and he is back in business school also.

Today Will and I took the Metro subway across town to Pudong and up to the top of the tallest building in Shanghai—World Financial Building.  It was an amazingly clear day in the city so was a great day to view the city through the glass floor of the observation deck.  Did a Japanese lunch and then made our way to Renmin Square to the Urban Planning Museum.  It was much more interesting than the name would suggest.  The hallmark is a futuristic scale model of Shanghai as it will look in 2020 that takes up an entire room.  We can attest to the fact that this city is under a major construction boom—doesn't look like any economy slow down here..

Monday, October 12, 2009

Shanghai

Flights were long but thankfully uneventful.  We had 5 hour layover in Soule and because we arrived at 4 am local time it was a long quiet, 5 hours!  Couldn't even find a coffee shop open.  But then a short leg into Shanghai and the kids were there waiting for us.  About an hour drive to their apartment in center of the city.  Tried to stay up the rest of day to get on Shanghai time but could only make it to 7pm when we both felt like we were dropping off the end of the earth.  A good night's sleep can do wonders and we woke up bright and early Monday morning ready to go.

We quickly found out that a former student from our teaching days back in 2000 just happened to be in Shanghai so we decided to meet up for coffee.  Was so fun to see him again.  Wasn't long before Nick decided that what we really needed right now was a good Chinese experience.  So off the three of us went to find a message parlor for an hour long Chinese foot message.  I wouldn't call it relaxing, sometimes it was almost painful, but was certainly invigorating and a interesting experience.  The theory of this is that there are points on your feet that can effect  your whole body so by manipulating those pressure points you can cure what ails you!  Then we went out to a dumpling restaurant for "jaotze".  In typical Chinese fashion, Nick ordered way more than we could possibly eat but we gave it a good try!

Back to the apartment in time to freshen up and join Tammy and Doug and a some of their friends for dinner at a restaurant near the Bund. Unfortunately it is not possible to spend the evening strolling the famous Bund riverfront because the city has the area under construction.  Going to be great when it is finished but right now the famous Shanghai icon is pretty much an eye sore.  The city is getting ready for  Expo 2010 next year so there is a lot of construction and urban renewal going on trying to put the best face on for this World's Fair.  Begins in May of next year—and given the obvious push the city is giving it, its going to be a big deal.

Since we couldn't actually get down to the Bund, and we were so close, we took a cab to the Hyatt and went up to the View bar on the 60th floor for a drop dead view of the Bund along the HuangPu River, Shanghai beyond it and Pudong and famous Pearl Tower across on the opposite banks.  Pretty amazing.

Friday, October 9, 2009

tea pots and Shanghai

Two things. 

First I want to show you what I got out of a successfull firing at the pottery studio.  I made a funky little tea pot in the Japanese style, with the handle on the side.  My teacher tells us that tea pots are sort of a gold standard for potters.  If one can throw and assemble all the parts of a teapot, the vessel, the lid, handle, spout then you have accomplished all the basics that a potter needs to master.  I'm pleased with how this one turned out. 
  And also
     My bags are packed and by the door.  Leaving this afternoon for three weeks in Shanghai.  Can't wait to see Doug and Tammy. I'll be posting lots of pictures, I hope.


Monday, October 5, 2009

Doug, Tammy and Roman

Yea, it works!  I had Tammy send a picture to my blog from China and it apears that it works.  So watch this space for a running commentary of our time in Shanghai.  By the way, aren't they a handsome group!  That's Doug and Tammy and friend Roman in the middle.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

test post


Just checking whether it works to email a post to my blog.  I'll even try sending a picture of a success from my last kiln firing

Hey, I just learned something.  I can post to my blog by email.  Now this is going to be important in about a week when I try to get to my blog from Doug and Tammy's home in Shanghai.  As far as I know, social networking is still blocked from China but maybe I can get around it by doing it this way.  I'll give it a try.

We are making lists, and notes to ourselves, and putting together piles of things to take but haven't actually started packing yet.  Plenty of time.  We leave next Friday for three weeks in China.

Friday, October 2, 2009

wedding anniversary



Thanks, Steph for the beautiful bouquet. All in sunny yellow!

That was to celebrate our 42nd wedding anniversary! Pretty neat, huh. Our anniversary was a couple of days ago but celebrated with dinner last night at Bob's Chop House. New restaurant in town and when I read the raving review in the paper, I tapped Will on the shoulder and told him we were going to break the piggy bank and go on our next anniversary. We were not disappointed--very good. We sat outside, drank a bottle of wine, enjoyed amazing steaks, and a complimentary (because we told the waiter it was our anniversary) chocolate desert that was decadent and droned on and on about how Blessed we are. As it got dark, the patio lights began to draw at least a dozen night hawks silently swooping over the desert vista. Sweet evening with my honey.