Sharon

We had a few hours to catch up with each other's family news with Sharon Watson near Omaha. Unfortunatly Doc was away for a week in Boston on business but was wonderful to see Sharon over a yummy burger at Red Robin.

driving east

Our "mad dash" to Iowa is mostly a leisurly road trip through America's heartland--grassland, then harvested wheat fields and alfalfa fields in eastern Colorado and Kansas, turning into tall corn in Nebraska. We stayed off of the Interstate on purpose because the small towns and countryside is much more interesting.

(Gene and Elaine, this one's for you--we stayed in the Chief Motel in McCook, Nebraska last night. Thoughts of you guys! Here is picture of BNSF rail depot that you will no doubt recognize.)

Side trip to Iowa

We planned to take a week sometime during this trip and go to Iowa to visit family. Since Pagosa Springs is the farthest point east on our itinerary we decided this would be a good place to put the RV in a storage lot and make a mad dash for the Midwest in the Honda.
Traveling east in Colorado we soon came to the San Juan Valley and the Great Sand Dunes National Park. You can see it for miles before you actually come upon it and it looks so out of place--just doesn't belong here. But nestled right up to the Sangre de Christo Mountains are the highest sand dunes in North America! 30 square miles of fine beach-sand with a river running along side. The river carries the sand down the valley and the wind blows it back. Actually the geology is a little more complicated than that but it is quite amazing.

Late in the afternoon we made a little side trip to the oldest town in Colorado, San Luis, to see the bronze sculptures by local artist Huberto Maestas of the Stations of the Cross. We walked the stations up the hill to the chapel, La Capilla de Todos Los Santos (Chapel of All Saints) with a grand view of the whole San Juan Valley.

We traveled about 150 miles today and found a quiet motel in a small town and actually watched some TV!

Pagosa Springs, Colorado

When in Pagosa Springs. . .the thing to do is go to "The Springs" and indulge in a lengthy soak in the naturally hot therapeutic mineral pools along the San Juan River. Terracing along the banks of this resort are something like 17 soaking pools of varying temperatures from 97 to 109 degrees. If you get too warm you can climb into the river for a shock of cold water before you jump back into a hot one of your choice. We went last night after dark for a little rejuvenating. It was actually raining which made it interesting also! Hey Stephanie, I like these hot springs!

You just never know what the campground is going to be like when you call ahead for a spot for the next night. Now, with a name like "Hide-A-Way" wouldn't you think it would be a cute little place tucked back in the trees along a nice little creek. Silly me. That is the main busy road, hiway 160. No hide-a-way here!! Nice people running the place, however. We have been surprised how busy campgrounds have been. Weekends are especially busy and we have learned to make sure we have a place secured by Friday night.

More pictures from our day on the train!

All Aboard the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

Here is the reason we‘ve been hanging close to Chama, New Mexico. We wanted to ride the steam train! It was such a fun thing to do--you gotta love those big, noisy, steam engines. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic railroad is suppose to be America’s longest and highest narrow gauge railroad. It was built in 1880 and track was laid west from Antonito in Colorado through spectacular Toltec Gorge, over 10,000 ft. Cumbres Pass and down the 4 percent grade into Chama, New Mexico. It was part of a line from Denver to Durango that carried passengers, livestock, ore and timber until 1951. This especially scenic section was saved through the intervention of some dedicated train lovers in the early 70’s.
We boarded our tourist car for a 10 am departure and enjoyed our ride over places like Lobato Trestle, Windy Point, Los Pinos Tank, and Tanglefoot Curve before we arrived at the highest point at Cumbres Pass. Then on into Osier for our well orchestrated all-you-could-eat lunch stop. The afternoon brought us past Phanton Curve, Toltec Gorge, and Rock Tunnel and Whiplash Curve and into Antonito, Colorado, all expertly narrated by our volunteer docent. Total mileage was something like 64 miles, traveling at a whopping 12 miles an hour. We spent very little time in our assigned seat, opting to be outside in the open car so that we wouldn’t miss a thing-- never mind the fine layer of soot when the day was finished. We were delivered back to Chama by motor coach.

Heron Lake and surroundings

Another three days without cell phones, TV, or internet. Only got tense one time when we had to run into town because Will ran out of popcorn!

Tierra Wool

A highlight for me was a trip to Tierra Wools in Los Ojos where we tagged along on a private tour and watched a production weaver as she showed us how they do it here at this local co-op. They are just one of several weavers in this area dedicated to the Rio Grand style using the traditional churros wool from local sheep raised in this high altitude. Here they also dye their own wool with natural dyes.

notice the old adobe building behind the dye room.

Heron Lake

Heron Lake is a New Mexico state park south of Chama. Wonderful lake to put our canoe in. Its a big, clear lake but motor boats are only allowed at trolling speed which makes it especially nice for sailing and canoeing. We'll be here maybe 4 days.

We got a bunch of rain last evening and woke up to a cool, foggy morning but soon the sun burnt the skies clear.

Abiquiu

We attended a truly inspiring communion service on Sunday at Ghost Ranch in their Agape Chapel, an open air space that looked out at Pedernal mountain. Loaded with amazing music, no instruments, just wonderful harmony and melody and chant.

We have moved to a Corp of Engineers campground at Abiquiu Dam not far from Ghost Ranch. Our site is high on a hill overlooking this huge reservoir on the Chamus River nestled into the New Mexico landscape. We have found this area to be rich with varied history and ambiguous cultures. Along with the Native cultures there is a strong Spanish Colonial influence that still resonates--and it is all convoluted together. I wanted to linger here because of all the Georgia O’Keeffe “stuff” but have been soaking up all kinds of other jewels of northern New Mexico history and lore that has made it a fun place to be. It is hot, however. This is desert. We hiked a trail at Ghost Ranch this morning to Chimney Rock at dawn when it was bearable. We ended up on top the mesa for a panoramic view.

Pedernal at sunrise!

This is an aquasita in the village of Abiquiu. It is an irrigation system that dates back to the Spanish and is still used today. Abiquiu gets its water on Monday.

Ghost Ranch

We're staying in the RV park at Ghost Ranch just up the road from Abiquiu. Its a 27,000 acre ranch that is a huge retreat and conference center owned by the Presbyterian Church. Georgia O'Keeffe had a small cabin on the property that she used to paint for many years way back when it was a Dude Ranch owned by Tucson's own Arthur Pack. He gave the property to the church in the mid 50's-- traveled back and forth to Tucson and was a major player in the beginning of our Desert Museum. Is open to the public now and tons of stuff going on here. Would be fun to come back and spend a week here and take in some of the learning opportunities or make a personal retreat.

This is the labyrinth for personal meditation.

O'Keeffe Country

The red rocks, the sky, the light, the colors--its all here where Georgia O'Keeffe found her inspiration from the 1930's until the end of her life.
This is Pedernal at sunset. The story goes that Georgia said that if she painted it enough, God would give it to her. Her ashes were scattered on its top when she died.

We had a fascinating tour of her house and studio at Abiquiu. No pictures were allowed but I was able to snap one of her house from the road now that I know where to look. The docent was great and we could imagine her living in that space. It is maintained as she left it in 1982 when she was no longer well enough to live there alone.

The High Road to Taos

Left Santa Fe behind and took the "High Road" to Taos. This is the Santuario de Chimayo in the village of Chimayo. Its a pilgrimage destination and called the Lourdes of New Mexico because so many of the devout come here for healing. There is a little room crammed full of crutches and canes and notes of thanksgiving from those who have experienced a special healing touch here. The old painted Santos and the carved alter were especially beautiful. This town is also noted for its Chile and an entertaining street seller sold me a bunch to take home and try. Its going to be good--he assured me!

This is the church of St Francis in Rancho Taos. Doesn't it look just like a Georgia O'Keefe painting? She actually painted it several times and Ansel Adams made it famous in his photos also.

city of Hollyhocks

I have been a Georgia O'Keeffe fan since I studied her work in an art history class back in my St Thomas days. So a morning spent at the GO'K museum was a must. Her "Jimson Weed" has just been returned from 8 years on loan to the Bush Whitehouse dining room. We're going up to Abiquiu tomorrow to tour the home and studio she had there and plan to visit Ghost Ranch also where she took so much inspiration for her work.

Lunch on the patio of Upper Crust

I've noticed so many hollyhocks blooming all over Santa Fe. Its a flower we always had on the farm when I was growing up and they do not do well in Tucson. I did a little "Georgia O'Keeffe" with this close up of a deep red one.

Museums and churches of Santa Fe

We paid a dollar for an all day city bus pass (senior rate) so that we could go downtown in comfort and not have to fight traffic or, more important, pay for parking. What a deal. We museum hopped, shopped at the Indian Market on the portal of the Palace of the Governors, walked the shopping streets, languished in the stunning newly renovated Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, and marveled at the spiral staircase of the Loretto Chapel. Santa Fe is a feast for the eyes and the soul.

I bought a "storyteller" at the market. It is a pottery doll from Jamez Pueblo. The potter dug natural clays from Pueblo land, and natural pigments also. That means so much work before she can even begin to fashion the clay into anything.

The staircase to the choir loft in this 1873 chapel has two spirals and no visible means of support except for the craftsmanship of the builder and the miracle of the legend that accompanies it.

From the Santos stations of the cross to the faux tile paintings, this Romanesque church was so amazing. The statue of La Conquistadora brought to Santa Fe in 1625 still stands in a side chapel--the city's patroness saint.

More sights of Santa Fe

I wasn't suppose to take this picture because it was in the Palace of the Governors museum but I liked seeing those dedicated Presbyterians